I may be spoiled for future backpacking after trekking with donkeys to carry the gear! We spent 3 days with a guide and 5 other guests hiking in the Chimgan Mountains, part of the Tien Shan range.
The conditions were more dusty and dry than typical, since there’s been no rain for 80 days. The rivers were flowing at a third of typical volume. Temperatures were about perfect for warm weather hiking during the day, and chilly evenings by the camp fire.
If you want to see more of the itinerary, we booked with Nuratau Travel. ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Day One
We came across a group harvesting walnuts. They were mostly just knocking them down with long poles, but one teen was also scrambling around high up in the branches shaking them down.
I went down to check out their bounty and the old farmer insisted on filling my backpack with nuts. Good job I don’t mind schlepping extra weight. We had fresh walnuts for the entire group for the rest of the trip!
Fresh walnuts are now ranking up there in my list of favorites!
First Camp
Dinner was cooked for us over a small fire while we chose our own tent site. It was great, our spot was near the main creek, and also had a side stream… Babbling brook white noise to the max. Only regret was not bringing our own sleeping pads and camp pillow, theirs left a lot to be desired!
The donkeys definitely did the heavy lifting of the trip – happily though, they were healthy and content (as far as appearances go). The two donkey hands seemed to enjoy their jobs and really take good care of the animals, unloading them as often as possible and treating them gently with a lot of good humor.
Day Two
A 11.6 mile, 4,275 foot gain day. Spectacular views of Big Chimgan.
My foraging heart was happy with the wild cherries along the way. The yellow ones were the most delicious, but the dark red/black ones (not pictured) were also pretty great.
Also, the most magnificent juniper trees all along the route.
At the very high point of the hike there were ~3,000 year old petroglyphs.
Day Three
Short day, just 3 “flat” miles to the cars. Lunch was in a private house, with the traditional plov as the meal.
Sherali generously took Derek and I to his brother’s home for showers before our train ride to Samarkand.
We rode the Afrosiyob from Tashkent to Samarkand, unfortunately it was dark so we couldn’t really witness the spectacular speed. The train had a crew and brought snacks and drinks almost like flight attendants.
Next post will be all things Samarkand…
Quillpig 