This place is gorgeous.
~ Derek
We stayed at the Islam Khodja Guest House which is inside the Itchan Kala, the old walled city, of Khiva. It’s run by a sweet family and there couldn’t be a better location to enjoy and explore Khiva. Check out the view from our room and while playing cribbage in the courtyard!
We made a list of nine “must sees” based on reading several blogs and websites and set off on a walking exploration.
Khiva is a tour bus city for sure, but we still managed to find many quieter spots and moments. There is something new to see around every corner, and some of the buildings not on our list held delightful surprises, equally gorgeous architectural elements, and less people.
Here are some highlights, mostly in photographs.
Kalta Minor Minaret
This was planned to be the tallest minaret in Uzbekistan, but Muhammad Amin Khan the ruler of Khiva having it built died, and construction ended in 1855. It is one of the most distinctive landmarks of Khiva.
Mohammed Amin Kahn Madrassa
Kuhna Ark and Watchtower
I particularly enjoyed the translation on this sign, “mud things of antique period”
Islam Khodja Minaret
We paid extra to climb the 175 huge spiral steps to the top of the minaret. It was interesting to see how the steps themselves are an integral part of the structure. And, of course, stunning views from the top.
Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum
A real renaissance man, as well as being a poet he was an undefeated wrestler, and apparently wrestlers pray to him before matches.
Nurullaboy Palace
Located outside the old city, this palace was huge, lovely, and (bonus) had very few visitors. We didn’t see it all as we were getting hungry for a late lunch and the teahouse at the palace was closed.
This exhibition was fascinating old, old pictures and videos. The minarets and mosques in Khiva have not changed much over the years (unlike Samarkand, where there has been a lot of recent rebuilding).
“Our” minaret in 1910:
Juma Mosque
Sadly the Juma Mosque was closed for renovations. I was looking forward to visiting it as it is described as very different to the other mosques, with a forest of ornately carved pillars, and magical light. We were able to peek through a gap in the door.
Silk Museum
We accidentally went to the silk museum instead of the carpet weaving museum, and it was a lucky mistake. The museum has only been open a year, and is a non-profit. Our guide/docent was super sweet and the whole experience was fun and interesting.
Derek finally got to try the hats he has been eyeing.
Blocks for printing silk money.
Tash Khauli Palace
Other assorted Khiva things…
Then we had a six hour drive to Bukhara, mostly on a very straight, very long, concrete highway. It really gave an insight as to what the tedium of traveling the Silk Road by camel must have been most of the journey.
Quillpig 